Tips and Tricks thread.

[FRY1975]

When removing a seized pin, weather its on a track chain assembly or when removing a hyrdaulic cylinder. Apply direct heat to the pin bosses, not the pin itself. You want the bosses to expand with heat, not the pin. Heating the pin will only cause it to expand in the bosses, making it tighter, defeating the initial purpose. Using a rosebud attachment on your torches works much better than heating with a cutting tip.


Quenching the heated area with water will help break the bond as well. But as always, be sure to wear proper safety gear when heating and quenching. Steam BURNS!



Jeremy

[Appalachian Ironworks LLC]

Great Idea Fry.
Keep them coming.
Go ask your old man what others he's got!

[FRY1975]

HA, Mr. Funny man! I'll go ask him now......stand-by!!



Later bud,
Jeremy

[FRY1975]

The importance of being an organized worker is of high value. Not only to your boss, your customers......but really to yourself. For those interested in a career as a construction equipment technician, paying attention to detail pays-off! As a field/road tech, you are are the "face of the company and manufacturers", when out on the job site. Appearance, organization, and attitude count, when in "the trenches". You are a technician and a salesman all rolled into one.

Let me let you interested in this career field, take a peak at my service truck and how its set-up and organized.


Ford F-450 service truck:http://www.mikeroweworks.com/forums/...hp?albumid=195


Enjoy, future wrenches!!
Jeremy

[Appalachian Ironworks LLC]

I cant begin to agree enough with this one.

After almost 3 weeks of going full steam ahead with some good contract labor my truck showed how true this is.

None of my help have worked off this truck enough to know where most stuff came from or goes back. I was truly glad for their help and even told them "as long as it for sure gets back on the truck it's no big deal".

Which is true in the sense that we were in a hurry constantly and I wasn't always available to show them where stuff went, so as long as it wasn't left behind I would re organize as soon as we finished up.

By the end of the second week none of of could find any thing since every one picked a different place for the same tool.

Since then I put it all back in shape and started labeling slots with paint markers.

[FRY1975]

Morning Brian,

Yeah, when you get going cRaZy it is sometimes difficult to keep everything tidy. When I did that pump drive coupler r&r on that large mill, I dedicated a spot for all the tools I needed for this job and left them all in one draw, until the job was done. NO sense in putting everything back nice and neat when your going to be tied up on one job for a few days.


Our shop apprentice doesn't have all the tools required yet(wouldn't expect him to) so he does use mine and the other guys tools on occassion. He's pretty good about putting stuff back in order. Good kid.


Good idea with the paint marker, Brian. I try to keep my stuff in order, by its purpose. Like air tools, cutting tools, taps and dies, hammers with electrical tape around the handles, etc. See, I can't bust your bvtt to much.....my hammers got the tape thing going on as well. Had to use electrical tape. Was fresh out of duct tape. The tear in the trucks seat was in need of some fixing!



Have a good weekend, boss!
Jeremy

[Appalachian Ironworks LLC]

Yeah I think they ought sell new hammers with the handles taped up already.

And for the record those burn marks are from getting used, you do know tools are built specifically to be used don't you?

One day maybe before next summer I'm going to build a flatbed for ol' hoopty and when I do I'll squeeze as many tool boxes under the bed as I can. I'm thinking it'd be really cool if the boxes had slide out drawers instead of doors.
I like the idea of a job specific space to use during a given job. At one shop we had a flatbed Ram with a slide out support for long loads, I would like to modify that idea so it'd have a slide out work table as well.

Hmmm, would it be cool to build it out of aluminum. Of course it'd have to have a matching aluminum front bumper/grill guard too.

If only I could find a good welder...

[FRY1975]

I like the idea for your rig, Brian. If and when you find a "good welder" make sure to take pictures, okay?


Have a good one brother!
Jeremy

[FRY1975]

Hydraulics give us the capability of moving a great amount of earth at very fast cycle times. Its an awesome power to harness, but one that needs to be respected.


When servicing a hydraulic circuit first and foremost bleed off the circuit lines. This can be achieved by turning off the machine and quickly moving the joysticks around in a circular fashion, on a closed center type system.(ie. Excavators) On an open center type system you can simply move your controls around at any point after the machine is shut down.(ie. mechanical linkage backhoes) Secondly, vent the hyraulic tank. Either by depressing the bleed valve or by slowly removing the filler cap.


These above steps need to take place prior to any work being preformed on a hydraulic system. When removing a particular circuit line(ie. hydraulic hose or tube) NEVER use a impact wrench/air tool to quickly remove any flange type capscrew bolts. There will still be residual line pressure built up. Doing so will cause the high pressure oil to escape rather rapidly. Which may cause personal injury. Basically don't be a numb nut or a cowboy, okay.


Slowly and with hand tools, remove the flange bolts or hose fitting. Allowing the residual oil to escape, well, slowly. With care(like if your on your first big date) tap the fitting ever so gently with a rubber mallet and allow the oil to escape that way. You'll know that the residual line pressure is reduced by how loose the hose fitting becomes. Your in the clear at this point and ready to preform the needed repair work.



Stay safe,
Jeremy

[Greg]

Ok, All mechanics know how to use a test light for checking electrical circutes
and componants.Well I thought they did till i keep seeing them replace a part to find it still does not work. They tell me they checked for power to the componant and have good power , the light lights up but when they replaced the part it still would not work. Then they tell me they must have a defective part. So here is the problem with using a standard test light. When you use a
test lite to check out a componant you have to ground the test light to the frame of the machine or car your working on and use the probe to test for
power at the problemed part. by doing this you may get the light to light up
think ,Hey i got voltage so my part is faulty. Not always because you may have a poor ground and by using a test light that has been grounded to the frame you get a false reading.So before you remove that expencive part run a
temporary ground and you may see that it still works just fine. So now you just need to repair the bad ground of the circute. If you use a volt meter or the the double lead test light that lights green if you have ground or red for power you wont have this problem. Hope this tip may help some of you.

Happy turkey Day
Greg